Waves and shallow water


Waves and shallow water

When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape. After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies.

See also

* Shallow water equations
* Boussinesq equations (water waves)
* Wave shoaling
* Ursell number

External links

* "Exploring the World Ocean" [http://highered.mcgraw-hill.com/sites/0073016543/student_view0/chapter1/]
* "The Oceans lecture slides taught at UCSC" [http://ic.ucsc.edu/~kudela/ocea1/Lectures/102607/Notes.dwt]


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