Cheddar cheese

Cheddar Cheese
Country of origin	England
Region	Somerset
Town	Cheddar
Source of milk	Cows
Pasteurised	Frequently
Texture	Hard
Aging time	3–180 months depending on variety
Certification	West Country farmhouse Cheddar PDO

Cheddar cheese is a relatively hard, yellow to off-white, and sometimes sharp-tasting cheese, produced in several countries around the world. It has its origins in the English village of Cheddar in Somerset.^[1]

It is the most popular cheese in the United Kingdom, accounting for 51 percent of the country's £1.9 billion annual cheese market,^[2] and the second most popular cheese in the United States, behind Mozzarella, with an average annual consumption of 10 lb (4.5 kg) per capita.^[3] The United States produced 1,616,690 tons of it in 2010,^[4] and the UK 258,000 tons in 2008.^[5] The name "Cheddar cheese" is widely used and has no Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) within the European Union, but only Cheddar produced from local milk within four counties of South West England may use the name "West Country Farmhouse Cheddar."^[6]

History

The cheese originates from the village of Cheddar in Somerset, South West England. Cheddar Gorge on the edge of the village contains a number of caves, which provided the ideal humidity and constant temperature for maturing the cheese.^[5] Cheddar cheese traditionally had to be made within 30 miles (48 km) of Wells Cathedral.^[1]

Cheddar has been produced since at least the 12th century. A pipe roll of King Henry II from 1170 records the purchase of 10,420 lb (4,730 kg) at a farthing per pound (UK£2.30 per ton).^[7] Charles I (1600–1649) also bought cheese from the village.^[5] Romans may have brought the recipe to Britain from the Cantal region of France.^[8]

Central to the modernisation and standardisation of Cheddar cheese was the nineteenth century Somerset dairyman Joseph Harding.^[9] For his technical developments, promotion of dairy hygiene and unremunerated propagation of modern cheese-making techniques he has been described as the father of Cheddar cheese.^[10] Harding introduced new equipment into the process of cheese making, including his "revolving breaker" for curd cutting, saving much manual effort.^[11][12] The "Joseph Harding method" was the first modern system for Cheddar production based upon scientific principles. Harding stated that Cheddar cheese is "not made in the field, nor in the byre, nor even in the cow, it is made in the dairy."^[13] He and his wife were behind the introduction of the cheese into Scotland and North America. Joseph Harding's son, Henry Harding, was responsible for introducing Cheddar cheese production to Australia.^[14]

During the Second World War, and for nearly a decade after the war, most milk in Britain was used for the making of one single kind of cheese nicknamed "Government Cheddar" as part of war economies and rationing.^[15] This nearly resulted in wiping out all other cheese production in the country. Before the First World War there were more than 3,500 cheese producers in Britain, while fewer than 100 remained after the Second World War.^[16]

Process

A bowl of cheese curds

Main article: Manufacture of Cheddar cheese

The curds and whey are separated using rennet, an enzyme complex normally produced from the stomachs of new-born calves (in vegetarian or kosher cheeses, bacterial-, yeast- or mould-derived chymosin is used).^[17][18]

Cheddaring refers to an additional step in the production of Cheddar-style cheese where, after heating, the curd is kneaded with salt, cut into cubes to drain the whey then stacked and turned.^[17] Strong, extra-mature Cheddar, sometimes called vintage, needs to be matured for up to 15 months. The cheese is kept at a constant temperature often requiring special facilities. As with other hard cheese varieties produced worldwide, caves provide an ideal environment for maturing cheese; still, today, some Cheddar cheese is matured in the caves at Wookey Hole and Cheddar Gorge.

Cheddar cheese maturing in the caves at Cheddar Gorge

Character

Cheddar cheeses on display at the Mid Somerset Show

The ideal quality of the original Somerset Cheddar was described by Joseph Harding in 1864 as "close and firm in texture, yet mellow in character or quality; it is rich with a tendency to melt in the mouth, the flavour full and fine, approaching to that of a hazelnut".^[19]

Cheddar, made in the classical way, tends to have a sharp, pungent flavour, often slightly earthy. Its texture is firm, with farmhouse traditional Cheddar being slightly crumbly; it should also, if mature, contain large crystals of calcium lactate – often precipitated when matured for times longer than six months.^[20] Real Cheddar is never "soapy", in texture or mouthfeel, and tends to be more brittle than other types of cheeses.

Cheddar is usually a deep to pale yellow (off-white) colour, but food colourings are sometimes used in industrial varieties of Cheddar style cheeses. One commonly used example is annatto, extracted from seeds of the tropical achiote tree. The largest producer of industrial Cheddar style cheese in the United States, Kraft, uses a combination of annatto and oleoresin paprika, an extract of the lipophilic (oily) portion of paprika.^[21] Coloured Cheddar-style cheese has long been sold, but even as early as 1860, the real reason for this was unclear: Joseph Harding stated "to the cheese consumers of London who prefer an adulterated food to that which is pure I have to announce an improvement in the annatto with which they compel the cheesemakers to colour the cheese".^[22] According to David Feldman, an author of trivia books, "The only reason why cheesemakers colour their product is because consumers seem to prefer it".^[21]

Cheddar cheese was sometimes (and still can be found) packaged in black wax, but was more commonly packaged in larded cloth, which was impermeable to contaminants, but still allowed the cheese to "breathe", although this practice is now limited to artisan cheese makers.

The Slow Food Movement has created a Cheddar Presidium,^[23] claiming that only three cheeses should be called "Cheddar". Their specifications, which go further than the West Country farmhouse Cheddar Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), require that Cheddar cheese be made in Somerset and with traditional methods, such as using raw milk, traditional animal rennet, and a cloth wrapping.^[24]

Notable Cheddar cheeses include "Quickes", which in 2009 was awarded cheese of the year by the British Cheese Association, "Keen's", with a strong tang, "Montgomery's", with an apple after taste. An example of a cheese, made in the style of a traditional Cheddar in Lincolnshire is Lincolnshire Poacher.

International production

Status

Cheddar cheese is used internationally; its name does not have a protected designation of origin (PDO). Producing countries include Australia, Belgium, Canada, Ireland, the Netherlands, New Zealand, South Africa, Sweden, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Cheddars can be industrial or artisan cheeses. The flavour of industrial cheese varies significantly, and food packaging will usually indicate a strength, such as mild, medium, strong, tasty, sharp, extra sharp, mature, old, or vintage; this may indicate the maturation period, or food additives used to enhance the flavour. Artisan varieties develop strong and diverse flavours over time.

New Zealand

Much of the Cheddar in New Zealand is factory-produced but reportedly good quality. Most of it is sold young within the country. The Anchor dairy company ships New Zealand Cheddars to the UK, where it matures for another year or so.^[25]

United Kingdom

PDO logo can be displayed on any approved West Country Farmhouse Cheddar cheese		The four English counties in the PDO

Only one producer of the cheese is now based in Cheddar itself, The Cheddar Gorge Cheese Co.^[26] The name "Cheddar" is not protected by the European Union, though the name "West Country Farmhouse Cheddar" has an EU Protected Designation of Origin, and may only be produced in Somerset, Devon, Dorset, and Cornwall, using milk sourced from those counties.^[27]

United States

Cheddar cheese from Bravo Farms, Traver, California

The state of Wisconsin produces the most Cheddar cheese in the United States; other centres of production include California, Upstate New York, Vermont, Tillamook, Oregon, Texas, and Oklahoma. It comes in several varieties, including mild, medium, sharp, extra sharp, New York Style, white, and Vermont. New York style Cheddar cheese is particularly sharp, and usually slightly softer than milder Cheddar varieties. Cheddar that has not been coloured is frequently labelled as "white Cheddar" or "Vermont Cheddar," regardless of whether it was produced in the state of Vermont. Vermont has three creameries that produce what is regarded as first-class Cheddar: the Cabot Creamery, which produces the sixteen-month-old Private Stock Cheddar; the Grafton Village Company; and Shelburne Farms.^[25]

Cheddar cheese is one of several products used by the United States Department of Agriculture to track the dairy industry; reports are issued weekly detailing prices and production quantities. Some cheeses called Cheddar are actually flavoured processed cheeses or cheese food, and often bear little resemblance to the original cheese. Examples include Easy Cheese, a cheese food contained in a spray can, or in individually wrapped processed cheese slices.

Record Cheddars

White House historians assert that U.S. President Andrew Jackson held an open house party where a 1,400 lb (635 kg) block of Cheddar cheese was served as "refreshment".^[28]

A cheese of 7,000 lb (3,175 kg) was produced in Ingersoll, Ontario, in 1866 and exhibited in New York and Britain; it was immortalised in the poem "Ode on the Mammoth Cheese Weighing over 7,000 Pounds" by James McIntyre, a Canadian poet.

In 1893 farmers from the town of Perth, Ontario produced The Mammoth Cheese, at a weight of 22,000 lb (10,000 kg) for that year's Chicago World's Fair. When placed on exhibit with the Canadian display, The Mammoth Cheese promptly crashed through the floor and had to be placed on reinforced concrete in the Agricultural Building. It was more written about than any other single exhibit at the fair, and received the bronze medal.

A still larger Wisconsin Cheddar cheese of 34,951 lb (15,853 kg) was produced for the 1964 New York World's Fair. It required the equivalent of the daily milk production of 16,000 cows.

The largest cheddar ever produced was created in Oregon by the Federation of American Cheese-makers in 1989. The cheddar weighed in at over 56,850 lb (25,786 kg).

See also

• Wedginald – a round of Cheddar made famous when its maturation was broadcast on the internet.

References

1. ^ ^{a b} Smale, Will (21 August 2006). "Separating the curds from the whey". BBC Radio 4 Open Country. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/5241544.stm. Retrieved 2007-08-07. 
2. ^ "The Interview - Lactalis McLelland's 'Seriously': driving the Cheddar market". The Grocery Trader. http://www.grocerytrader.co.uk/News/October_2006/G_lactalis.html. Retrieved 2007-05-09. 
3. ^ "Cheese Sales and Trends". International Dairy Foods Association. http://www.idfa.org/news--views/media-kits/cheese/cheese-sales-and-trends/. Retrieved 9 November 2010. 
4. ^ "Cheddar Cheese Production". http://future.aae.wisc.edu/data/annual_values/by_area/154?tab=production. University of Wisconsin. http://future.aae.wisc.edu/data/annual_values/by_area/154?tab=production. Retrieved 9 November 2010. 
5. ^ ^{a b c} Rajan, Amol (22 September 2009). "The Big Question: If cheddar cheese is British, why is so much of it coming from abroad?". The Independent. http://www.independent.co.uk/extras/big-question/the-big-question-if-cheddar-cheese-is-british-why-is-so-much-of-it-coming-from-abroad-1791185.html. Retrieved 9 November 2010. 
6. ^ Brown, Steve; Blackmon, Kate; and Cousins, Paul. Operations management: policy, practice and performance improvement. Butterworth-Heinemann, 2001, pp. 265–266.
7. ^ "History". Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company. http://www.cheddargorgecheeseco.co.uk/acatalog/about-cheddar-gorge.html. Retrieved 2009-08-01. 
8. ^ Barthélemy, Roland & Sperat-Czar, Arnaud (2003), Guide du fromage. Editions Hachette Pratique, Publishers, pp. 89, ISBN 2-01-236867-0
9. ^ "History of Cheddar Cheese". Icons of England. http://www.icons.org.uk/theicons/collection/cheddar-cheese/biography/history-of-cheddar-finished. Retrieved 2007-05-09. 
10. ^ Heeley, Anne; Mary Vidal (1996). Joseph Harding, Cheddar Cheese-Maker. Glastonbury: Friends of the Abbey Barn. 
11. ^ Transactions of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, By Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, 1866-7 volume 1, Aberdeen
12. ^ History of British Agriculture, 1846-1914: 1846 - 1914‎ - Page 145 by Christabel Susan Lowry Orwin, Edith Holt Whetham - Agriculture - 1964
13. ^ "Encyclopedia - Harding, Joseph". Gourmet Britain. http://www.gourmetbritain.com/encyclo_entry.php?item=2391. Retrieved 2009-06-23. 
14. ^ From Artisans to “Factories”: The Interpenetration of Craft and Industry in English Cheese-Making 1650–1950, by Richard Blundel and Angela Tregear, Enterprise and Society, October 17th 2006
15. ^ "Government Cheddar Cheese". Practically Edible. http://www.cooksinfo.com/government-cheddar-cheese. Retrieved 2011-04-30. 
16. ^ Potter, Mich (9 October 2007). "Cool Britannia rules the whey". Toronto Star. http://www.thestar.com/News/article/264784. Retrieved 2009-01-04. 
17. ^ ^{a b} "Savvy shopper: Cheddar". London: Daily Telegraph. 18 June 2005. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/wine/main.jhtml?xml=/wine/2005/06/18/edsavvy18.xml. Retrieved 2008-03-10. 
18. ^ "Information Sheet - Cheese & Rennet". Vegetarian Society. http://www.vegsoc.org/info/cheese.html. Retrieved 2008-03-10. 
19. ^ Transactions of the New-York State Agricultural Society for the Year 1864, page 232, volume 14 1865, Albany
20. ^ "The efficiency of sodium gluconate as a calcium lactate crystal inhibitor in Cheddar cheese". Midwest Dairy Foods Research Center. http://www.cpdmp.cornell.edu/CPDMP/Pages/Workshops/Syracuse09/PDFs/Metzger.pdf. Retrieved 12 November 2010. 
21. ^ ^{a b} Feldman, David (1989). When Do Fish Sleep? And Other Imponderables of Everyday Life. Harper & Row, Publishers, Inc.. p. 15. ISBN 0-06-016161-2. 
22. ^ Murray, John (1860). "Recent Improvements in Dairy Practice". Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society of England (London) 21: 90. http://books.google.com/?id=OKsGTRlEfSgC&pg=RA1-PA82&dq=joseph+harding+cheese. 
23. ^ Blulab sas. "La Fondazione - slow food per la biodiversità - ONLUS". Slowfoodfoundation.org. http://www.slowfoodfoundation.org/eng/presidi/dettaglio.lasso?cod=148. Retrieved 2009-06-23. 
24. ^ "Presidia Artisan Somerset Cheddar". The Slow Food Foundation. http://www.slowfoodfoundation.com/eng/presidi/dettaglio.lasso?cod=148. Retrieved 2007-05-09. 
25. ^ ^{a b} Ridgway, Judy. The Cheese Companion. Running Press, 2004, p. 77.
26. ^ "Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company". http://www.cheddargorgecheeseco.co.uk. 
27. ^ "EU Protected Food Names Scheme - UK registered names". defra. http://www.defra.gov.uk/foodrin/industry/regional/foodname/products/registered/westcoun.htm. Retrieved 22 July 2009. 
28. ^ "Andrew Jackson". The Presidents of the United States of America. The White House. http://clinton3.nara.gov/WH/glimpse/presidents/html/aj7.html. Retrieved 2008-10-24. 

External links

• Icons of England – Cheddar Cheese