- Wye Valley
The Wye Valley
Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty(AONB) is an internationally important protected landscape straddling the border between England and Wales. It is one of the most dramatic and scenic landscape areas in southern Britain.
River Wye( _cy. Afon Gŵy) is the fifth-longest river in the United Kingdom. The upper part of the river passes through the settlements of Rhayader, Builth Wellsand Hay-on-Wye, but the area designated as an AONB surrounds only the 72-mile stretch lower down the river, from just south of the city of Herefordto Chepstow.
This area covers parts of the counties of
Gloucestershire, Herefordshireand Monmouthshire, and is recognised in particular for its limestone gorgescenery and dense native woodlands, as well as its wildlife, archaeological and industrial remains. It is also historically important as one of the birthplaces of the modern tourismindustry. The area is predominantly rural, and many people make a living from tourism, agriculture or forestry. Ross-on-Wyeis the only town within the AONB itself, but Hereford, Monmouth, Coleford and Chepstow lie just outside its boundaries.
The varied landscapes of the Wye Valley can be explained by underlying rocks and structures, and how ice and then the river and tributary streams have acted upon them through time.
Close to Hereford, the geology of the area around the village of
Woolhopeis largely made up of Silurian limestones, shales and sandstones. To the south of this, the Herefordshire lowlands are largely underlain by red mudstones and sandstones, producing a redder soil. These rocks are softer than the limestones elsewhere, so the river created more meanders, a wider floodplain, and a gentler and more rolling landscape. Around Symonds Yat, limestones and red sandstones meet. This leads to a landscape of hills and plains, as well as substantial meanders which have formed impressive river cliffs.
The Lower Wye landscape was formed by the river acting on a series of layers of rock that dip towards the
Forest of Dean. Here the river has incised into the margins of the Old Red Sandstoneplateau to form a gorge with substantial river cliffs. The steepest parts of the Wye gorge are cut through the Carboniferous Limestone. Here the combined action of the river, natural joints in the rocks and quarrying have exposed many vertical faces, particularly between Tinternand Chepstow.
Geological interest extends underground, and there are many
rock sheltersand solution cavesin the area. These include King Arthur's Cave and many others in the area of Symonds Yat. At St Arvans, near Chepstow, the underground watercourses have carved out long cave systems, which exit at Otter Holeat the base of Piercefield cliffs — the only cave system in England or Wales which has to be reached through a tidal sump, making it a meccafor experienced cavers.
The Wye Valley is important for its rich wildlife habitats. The area has three sites of international importance, designated as candidate
Special Areas of Conservation(cSACs) under the European Union's Habitats Directive. In national terms, the area is particularly important for Lesser Horseshoe Bats, Peregrine Falcons, ravens, rare whitebeam, nightjarand lesser known fish like the shadand thwaite.
In September 2006 it was reported that one colony of lesser horseshoe bats in the area had reached record numbers, with some 890 bats in a small stone barn. This is believed to be the largest colony of lesser horseshoe bats in England, and one of the largest in Europe. [ [http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/gloucestershire/5359348.stm BBC NEWS | England | Gloucestershire | Bat colony reaches record numbers ] ]
The valley has been inhabited for at least 12,000 years. Caves near
Symonds Yatand Chepstowprovide evidence of settlement dating from Palaeolithictimes, and finds from later stone ages have also been found. These have yielded evidence of how prehistoric human populations lived as nomadic hunters and traders. Standing stonesat Huntsham, Staunton, and Trellechall have origins dating back to the Bronze Age. Later, Iron Ageforts along the lower Wye Valley, and in the Woolhope area, took advantage of the natural hilltops and promontories to form well-defended settlements. It is likely that many of these marked the edges of disputed tribal pre-Roman territories. Watling Streetran through the Roman settlements of Ariconium (just north of Ross on Wye) and Blestium(Monmouth), and a number of other small Roman settlements are known. The first evidence of the exploitation of iron and coal in the valley is found in the Roman period, with iron working known from sites at Monmouth, Trellech and elsewhere, as well as in the adjoining Forest of Dean. The medieval boroughs of Goodrich and Chepstow, at each end of the Wye Gorge, may have originally been established at this time.
Closely following the River Wye,
Offa's Dykewas built in the 8th century under King Offato mark out the boundary between England and Wales and is, today, the longest archaeological monument in Britain. Offa's Dyke Path long distance footpathtoday traces the route through the Wye valley.
The medieval period
Normansconquered the region in the eleventh century they immediately built major castles at Chepstow and Monmouthto defend the territory. Smaller castles were built at Goodrich and St Briavels. Tintern Abbeywas founded in 1131 by Cistercianmonks, and largely rebuilt in the thirteenth century. It is the best-preserved medieval abbeyin Wales and an outstanding example of Gothic architecture.
Many of the smaller villages in the area probably date from the Middle Ages, and much of this expansion was probably associated with the early
ironindustry. The medieval iron industry consumed large quantities of charcoaland much of the woodland was coppiced for this purpose. Trellech was one of the largest communities in Wales during this period.
The development of industry
The Lower Wye Valley can claim to be a birthplace of the
Industrial Revolution. Ironhas been made in the Wye Valley since Roman times, using the ready supply of timber, good quality ore and abundant charcoalfrom the Forest of Dean. The river provided transport for the raw materials and finished product, and with the introduction of the blast furnacein the 1500s, its tributaries began to be used for water power.
brassmade in Britain was founded at Tinternin 1566. Wire-making followed, with water mills situated on all the tributaries of the lower Wye. The area resounded to the noise and smoke of heavy industry for the next 400 years and gave rise to many pioneering industries. For instance, Whitebrookbecame famous for paper milling, when wallpaperbecame a fashionable way to decorate houses. At Redbrook, copperworks were established by 1691, and a century later the village became one of the world's major tinplatemanufacturing centres. This industry survived until the 1960s and was renowned for producing the thinnest, highest quality plate in the world. The Lydbrookvalley was also a thriving centre for metal industries, such as the manufacture of telegraph cables.
The valley woodlands were carefully managed to produce mature trees for
shipbuilding, or by coppicing for charcoal, and to provide bark for tanning. The valley industries were also massive consumers of timber. A ship of 150 tons, for example, required 3,000 wagonloads of timber to complete — and in 1824, 13 ships were launched at Brockweiralone. The river was the economic backbone of the region, providing an important means of transport, trade and communication. In late medieval times, salmonweirs hindered free passage on the river, but the Wye Navigation Act in 1662 enabled the river's potential to be developed. By 1727 shallow draught boats could get upstream beyond Hereford, and a significant shipbuilding industry developed at Monmouth, Llandogo, Brockweir and Chepstow. However, by 1835 it was stated that the Wye "can scarcely be considered a commercial highway" above Monmouth, and by the 1880s Brockweir bridge was the effective upper limit of navigation.
As the 19th century progressed, the valley's industries gradually declined, and management of the woodlands lessened when there was no longer a ready market for their products.
The origins of British tourism
The Wye Valley witnessed the birth of British tourism in the eighteenth century. The earliest known appreciation of the area's spectacular beauty can be dated to the beginning of the century, when
John Kyrledeveloped the 'Prospect' at Ross-on-Wye, and it was later mentioned in verse by Alexander Pope.
In 1745, John Egerton, later
Bishop of Durham, started taking friends on boat trips down the valley from the rectory at Ross. The area became more widely known following the publication of works by the poet Thomas Gray, and, in particular, "Observations on the River Wye" by the Reverend William Gilpin, published in 1782. The first illustrated tour guide to be published in Britain, it helped travellers locate and enjoy the most " Picturesque" aspects of the countryside. Regular excursions began to be established from Ross, the boat journey to Chepstowtaking two days.
Some of the most famous poets, writers and artists of the day made the pilgrimage to the great sights of Goodrich,
Tinternand Chepstow— among them Coleridge, Thackeray and Turner. Wordsworth was also captivated by the area, writing "Lines Written a Few Miles Above Tintern Abbey" in 1798.
The first of Britain's great landscapes to be 'discovered', the Wye Valley's particular attraction was its river scenery, and the many guidebooks, engravings and paintings ensured a continuing steady stream of visitors. Viewpoints were specially constructed, including
the Kyminabove Monmouth, with its round house giving panoramic views across the town. Another highlight for travellers was the cliff ascent and walks at Piercefield. However, most of the truly 'Picturesque' scenes were sketched from river level, with the shimmering water as the foreground for the forests and cliffs behind, and the castle and abbey ruins.
In 1813 the Monmouth Tramroad linked
Coalway(near Coleford), Redbrookand Monmouth. This was the world's first railed-way to make specific powers in its Act of Parliament to allow for the charging of fares to passengers.
The standard gauge
Wye Valley Railwayline between Chepstow, Monmouth and Ross opened much later, in 1876. This made the valley more accessible and popular to tourists. In the early 1900s, crowds of up to 1300 would travel on a special train journey to see Tintern Abbey on the night of the harvest moon. The line closed to passengers in 1959, although sections remain as bridleways and footbridges [ [http://urban75.org/photos/wales/wye_history.html History of the railways around Monmouth and the Wye Valley branch line, Monmouthshire, Wales ] ] .
The road network in the lower Wye valley remained essentially undeveloped during the rise of the Valley's industrialisation, until a series of
Turnpike trusts were authorised during the 18th century. It was not until 1828 that the current Wye Valley road, the A466, was first constructed.
Management of the area
The Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) was first designated in 1971. The designation indicates the importance of recognising and preserving the area's distinctive qualities, for the benefit of present and future generations.Administratively the area is very complex, being the only protected landscape to straddle the border between England and Wales. The Counties of Herefordshire, Monmouthshire and Gloucestershire are each in a different government region. Co-ordination of conservation across these political boundaries is undertaken by an AONB unit and Joint Advisory Committee. A Management Plan for the AONB enlists a range of partners in conserving and enhancing its beauty for the benefit of present and future generations.
The navigation of the tidal part of the Wye (below
Bigsweir) comes under the control of the Gloucester Harbour Trusteesas Competent Harbour Authority.
Wye Valley Brewery
Wye Valley Walk
* [http://www.wyevalleyaonb.org.uk/ Official site for the Wye Valley AONB]
* [http://www.visitwyevalley.com/index.html/ Tourist information on the Wye Valley]
* [http://www.wyevalley.info Wye Valley Visitors Guide]
* [http://urban75.org/photos/wales/wye.html Wye Valley Railway - history and photos]
* [http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/artsandculture/3066900/The-Wye-Valley-Riverside-of-the-Romantics.html Daily Telegraph article - The Wye Valley: Riverside of the Romantics]
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