Embroidery of India


Embroidery of India

Kashmiri embroidery or kashida is colorful and beautiful as Kashmir itself. Embroiders often draw inspiration from the beautiful nature around. The colors the motifs of flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. are the most common ones. The whole pattern is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles.

Process and Stitches

The base cloth whether wool or cotton, is generally white or crème or other similar shades. Pastel colors are also often used. The craftsmen use the color shades often blending with the background. Thread colors are florals seen around. Very few stitches are used on one fabric, one or two. Attimes the whole fabric is done in a single stitch type. These stitches are often called Kashmiri stitch.

Kashmiri embroidery is known for the skilled execution of a single stitch. Chain stitch, satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, stem, herringbone and sometimes the doori or knot stitches are used but not more than one or two at a time.

Sozni embroidery or dorukha is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides of the shawl each side having a different color. There is no wrong side. The same design is produced in different colors on both sides. Another type of needle embroidery is popularly known as 'papier mache' embroidery because Flowers and leaves are worked in satin stitch in bright colors such as those of papier mache and each motif is then outlined in black. This is done either in broad panels on either side of the breadth of a shawl, or covering the entire surface of a stole.

A third type of embroidery is ari or hook embroidery; motifs here are the well-known flower design finely worked in concentric rings of chain stitch. This is same as colored Zari or ari embroidery.

Kashmiri Embroidery

The Kashmiri, Embroidery commonly known with its traditional name "Kashida Embroidery" is famous for its sheer beauty and has in perfection attained the limits of fantasy and incredulity. Patterns and colour schemes are magnificently employed in Kashmiri Embroidery by the crafts-man with a mood aligned to the spirit of nature.Kashmiri Embroidery is done on canvas base material with crystal threads. Pashmina and leather threads are also used in Kashmiri Embroidery. The designs and motifs employed are Notus, ghobi, chinar leaf, natural depicting flowers and leaf, birds, Blossoms and Trees. Utility items being produced commercially today are bed spread, floor cushion, pillow covers and sofa cushions etc.

Embroidery of India includes dozens of regional embroidery styles varying by region.

The most ornate and tedious form of Indian embroidery is the Zardosi workmanship. This form uses metal thread instead of the usual silk or rayon. The fabric, usually silk or velvet, is marked with the pattern and then the craftsman covers the pattern with metal thread embellishing it with stones or beads. Many rich women from the late 1500s had many dresses that had embroidery in them.

Another form of embroidery from India is the Ari work. This work is done by stretching the fabric on a frame and creating the stiches from a long a needle. The needle also carries sequins, beads, and other embelishments to decorate the pattern.

See also

* Phulkari - Embriodery of Punjab Region


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