- Wave shoaling
fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the phenomenon that surface waves on a water layer of decreasing depth change their wave height(which is about twice the amplitude). It is caused by the fact that the group velocity, which is also the wave-energy transport velocity, changes with water depth.
shallow waterand parallel depth contours, non-breaking waves will increase in wave height when following a wave packetas it moves from one location towards another location with less water depth. This is for instance particularly important with respect to the devastating effects of tsunami's when they reach the coast.
For non-breaking waves the
energy fluxassociated with the wave motion — which is the product of the wave energy density with the group velocity — between to wave rays is a conserved quantity (i.e. a constant when following the energy of a wave packetfrom one location to another). As a result, water depth changes result in energy density variations. And wave energy is proportional to the amplitude squared.
Ocean surface waves
Airy wave theory
Dispersion (water waves)
*cite book | title=Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists | author=Dean, R.G. | coauthors=Dalrymple, R.A. | year=1991 | series=Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering | volume=2 | publisher=World Scientific | location=Singapore | isbn=978-9810204204
*cite book | first=Y. | last=Goda | title=Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures | year=2000 | series=Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering | volume=15 | publisher=World Scientific | location=Singapore | edition=2nd edition | isbn=978 981 02 3256 6
* [http://www.encora.eu/coastalwiki/Wave_transformation#Shoaling Wave transformation at Coastal Wiki]
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