West Azarbaijan Province

West Azarbaijan Province

:"This article is about the Iranian province; for similar uses, see Azerbaijan (disambiguation)."

Infobox Iran Province
province_name = West Azarbaijan
ostan_name = آذربایجان غربی
loc_

capital = Urmia
latd = 37.5528
longd = 45.0759
area = 37,437
pop = 2,949,426
pop_year = 2005
pop_density = 78.8
sub_provinces = 14
languages=Azeri, Kurdish, Persian, Armenian, Neo-Aramaic languages
West Azarbaijan or West Azerbaijan (Persian:آذربایجان غربی "Āzarbāijān-e Gharbī", Azeri: غربی آذربایجان" Gharbī Āzarbāijān ") is one of the 30 provinces of Iran.

The province of West Azarbaijan covers an area of 39,487 km², or 43,660 km² including Lake Urmia. In 2006 the province had a population of 3,015,361 [http://www.gazetteer.de/wg.php?x=1134803708&men=gpro&lng=en&gln=xx&des=gamelan&dat=200&geo=-1904&srt=epnn&col=aohdqcfbeimg] . The capital city of the province is Urmia.

History

The name of Azerbaijan derives from "Atropates" [Minorsky, V.; Minorsky, V. "Ādharbaydjān ( Azarbāydjān ) ." Encyclopaedia of Islam. Edited by: P.Bearman, Th. Bianquis, C.E. Bosworth, E. van Donzel and W.P. Heinrichs. Brill, 2007. Brill Online. ] [Encyclopedia Iranica, "Azerbaijan: Pre-Islamic History", K. Shippmann] , a Iranian satrap of Media under the Achaemenid empire, who later was reinstated as the satrap of Media under Alexander of Macedonia"Historical Dictionary of Azerbaijan" by Tadeusz Swietochowski and Brian C. Collins. The Scarecrow Press, Inc., Lanham, Maryland (1999), ISBN 0-8108-3550-9 (retrieved 7 June 2006)] . The original etymology of this name is thought to have its roots in the ancient Zoroastrianism, namely, in Avestan Frawardin Yasht ("Hymn to the Guardian Angels"), there is a mentioning of: "âterepâtahe ashaonô fravashîm ýazamaide", which literally translates from Old Persian as "we worship the Fravashi of the holy Atare-pata" [ [http://www.avesta.org/ka/yt13sbe.htm Frawardin Yasht ("Hymn to the Guardian Angels") -- translated by James Darmesteter (From Sacred Books of the East, American Edition, 1898)] ] . Atropates ruled over the region of present-day Iranian Azerbaijan.

According to various sources cited in Encyclopedia Iranica, [Encyclopedia Iranica, p.206] the current province of West Azarbaijan was part of the Sassanid Azarbadegan satrap as far back as the 3rd century. ["ibid" p.206] The current ruins of Takht-i Suleiman in today’s West Azarbaijan was the capital of the Azarbaijan Satrapy. ["ibid" p.206]

Permanent settlements were established in the province as early as the 6th millennium BCE as excavation at sites such as Teppe Hasanlu establish. In Hasanlu, a famous "Golden Vase" was found in 1958. The province is also the location of Tepe Hajji Firuz, site of some of the world’s earliest evidence of wine production. [ [http://www.museum.upenn.edu/new/research/Exp_Rese_Disc/NearEast/wine.shtml "World's Oldest Known Wine Jar" University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology] ] [Voigt, Mary M. and Meadow, Richard H. (1983) "Hajji Firuz Tepe, Iran: the neolithic settlement" University Museum, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, ISBN 0-934718-49-0] "Gooy Teppe" is another significant site, where a metal plaque dating from 800 BCE was found that depicts a scene from the epic of Gilgamesh.

Ruins such as these and the UNESCO world heritage site at the Sassanid compound of Takht-i-Suleiman illustrate the strategic importance and tumultuous history of the province through the millennia. Overall, the province enjoys a wealth of historical attractions, with 169 sites registered by the Cultural Heritage Organization of Iran.

While some Islamic researchers [Balādâorī and Ebn Kordādâbeh] have proclaimed that the birth of the prophet Zoroaster was in this area, in the vicinity of Lake Orumieh (Chichesht), Konzak City, recent scholarship indicates that Ardabil or sites in Central Asia are more likely. ["As a matter of fact, only untrustworthy and late traditions place Zoroaster's birthplace at Urmia." Tarbiyat, Muḥammad Ali (1935) "Dānishmandān-i Āzarbayjān" Tehran, p. 162, reissued in 1999, ISBN 964-422-138-9]

The province continued to experience many wars over the centuries. Numerous Azeris arrived in the region, including to the west of Lake Urmia beginning around the 13th century. [Encyclopedia Iranica, p.206]

The first monarch of Iran's Qajar dynasty, Agha Muhammad Khan, was crowned in Urmia in 1795.

Significant events in 19th and 20th century that took place are:

* Shaikh Ubeidullah Revolts, west and south of Lake Urmia in 1880; [ The Kurdish Question", By W. G. Elphinston, Journal of International Affairs, Royal Institute of International Affairs, 1946, p.94 ]
* Simko Insurrections, west of Lake Urmia from 1918 to 1922; [ The Kurdish Question", By W. G. Elphinston, Journal of International Affairs, Royal Institute of International Affairs, 1946, p.97 ]
* the Soviet occupation in 1946;
* the foundation and destruction of the Republic of Mahabad in 1946; and
* periodic severe fighting from 1979 until 1990s (and even to the present, but on a smaller scale [http://www.iranian.ws/iran_news/publish/article_8780.shtml] ) between Kurdish (nationalist and communist) forces and the Iranian government. At times, large parts of the province were without government control [http://countrystudies.us/iran/40.htm] .

These separatist movements may have many motivations and origins; however, the colonialist policies of the Soviet Union and Imperial Russia encouraged such movements. In a cable sent on July 6th 1945 by the "Central Committee of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union", the local Soviet commander in Russian held Azerbaijan (northern Azerbaijan) was instructed::"Begin preparatory work to form a national autonomous Azerbaijan district with broad powers within the Iranian state and simultaneously develop separatist movements in the provinces of Gilan, Mazandaran, Gorgan, and Khorasan"." [Decree of the CC CPSU Politburo to Mir Bagirov, CC Secretary of the Communist Party of Azerbaijan, on "measures to Organize a Separatist Movement in Southern Azerbaijan and Other Provinces of Northern Iran". Translation provided by The Cold War International History Project at The Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars.]

Geography and Climate

With an area of 43,660 square kilometers, including Lake Urmia,the province of West Azarbayjan is located on the north-west of Iran.

The climate of the province is largely influenced by the rainy winds of the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean. Cold northern winds affect the province during winter and cause heavy snow.According to existing meteorological data, local temperatures vary within the province. Average temperature differs from 9.4 °C in Piranshahr to 11.6 °C in Mahabad, while it is 9.8 °C in Urmia, 10.8 °C in Khoy, 9.4 °C in Piranshahr, and in Mahabad 11.6 °C. According to same data, the highest temperature in the province reaches 34 °C in July, and the lowest temperature is –16 °C in January. Maximum change of temperature in summer is 4 °C, and in winter 15 °C.West- Azarbayjan province, encompassing vast and fertile plains, high mountains, enjoying moderate and healthy weather, rivers with high volume of water, vineyards, orchards, luxuriant forest and rangelands, mountain outskirt with wonderful flora, magnificent wildlife and beautiful shores around the lake with different recreational facilities, which all together form one of the most beautiful and spectacular region in Iran. A land with wonderful flora during the spring and the summer covered with tulip, poppy, narcissus and hyacinth extending from Arass rivers banks in the north to Zab Kouchak valley in the south.

Demographics

The province is divided into 14 shahrestans (counties). The present number of shahrestans (counties) was achieved over time by subdivision of many of the larger shahrestans into smaller ones. The cities (shahrestans) are: Piranshahr, Urmia, Mahabad, Oshnaviyeh, Miandoab, Naghadeh, Takab, Shahindej, Maku, Chaldoran, Salmas, Khoy,Sardasht and Bukan.

There are no official statistics or census figures on the ethnic makeup of Iranian cities. The bulk of the population are madeup of Azerbaijanis and Kurds. There are three small ethnic and religious groups who are native to the province but who have minority status: Assyrians, Armenians, and Jews. There are also immigrants from other parts of Iran in the major cities of the province.

The diversity of religions in the province has been a major factor throughout the entire history of the province. The religions in the province are: Islam (Sunni and Shia sects), Christianity, Judaism, and Yarasani. Both Azeris and Kurds follow Islam, the Kurds belonging to the Sunni branch and the Azeris being mainly Shias. There is also a very small minority who follow a religion called Yarasani (or Ahl-e Haqq, اهل حق). Christianity is the main religion of the Assyrians, and Armenians. The Jews, as the name indicates, belong to the Judaism religion.

Religion

In this province, Islam (Sunni and Shiite) is the majority religion. However, there is also a large Christian minority, Assyrians who have historically lived on the west shore of Lake Urmia, as well as Armenians who are scattered throughout the province. Notably, the city of Maku in northern West Azarbaijan was the only city in Iran (before World War II) where Christians comprised the majority. Before World War I, Christian Armenians and Assyrians compromised a significant minority in Urmia, but that during the Ottoman and Russian Wars (during WWI) many left the region.

St. Thaddeus Cathedral is located on the outskirts of Chaldoran, near the village of Qara-Kelissa. Besides being a religious site with a particular significance among Iranian Christians, particularly Armenians, this large church (monastery) is also a rare and valuable monument in architectural and artistic terms.

St. Thaddeus, also known as Jude Thaddeus or Jude Labbeus, was one of the apostles of Jesus Christ who traveled to Armenia, where he was later killed and upon whose grave the locals erected a small chapel in AD 301. The cathedral is known as "Qara-kelissa" ('Black church' in Turkish) to the locals, owing to the appearance of its western section. In 1329, the church was reconstructed in its present form after an earthquake destroyed the structure in 1319.

Infobox World Heritage Site
WHS = The Armenian Monastic Ensembles in Iran


State Party =
Type = Cultural
Criteria = ii, iii, vi
ID = 1262
Region = Asia-Pacific
Year = 2008
Session = 32nd
Link = http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1262

Churches in West Azarbaijan

In all, thirty-one churches are registered by the Cultural Heritage Organization of Iran in the province. Many of these are historical landmarks and unusually rich in heritage. Some of the more famous ones are listed as follows: ["Azarbaijan Gharbi", Cultural Heritage Organization of Iran publications, ISBN 964-7483-80-5]
*Qara Kelissa ("The Black Church"), Armenian, Chaldoran, early Christianity.
*Kelisa Naneh Maryam ("Church of Mother Mary"), Assyrians, Urmia, Sassanid era.
*Kelisa Hazrat Maryam ("Church of Mary"), Assyrian, Urmia, late Sassanid period.
*Kelisa Surep Serkis, Khoy, 4th century AD.
*Kelisa Haftvan, Salmas, Armenian, 13th century.
*Kelisa Golpashan, Urmia, rebuilt in 1905.
*Kelisa Martoma ("Church of Thomas"), believed by local Armenians to be the first church in Iran founded by St. Thomas himself.
*Kelisa Qarabagh, Armenian, Ilkhanid period.
*Kelisa Marserkis, Assyrians, Urmia, Sassanid era.
*Kelisa Petrosoplos ("Church of Paul and Peter"), Urmia, believed built by Bukhtishu.
*Kelisa Golan, Assyrians, 5th century.
*Kelisa Mardanial, outside Urmia, Sassanid era, destroyed in World War I, rebuilt.
*Kelisa Vank Khosrow-abad, near Salmas, Assyrians, built by Khosrau II of Persia. The Holy Cross of Jerusalem was kept here for a while.
*Kelisa Zurzur, Chaldoran, built in AD 1315.In 2008, UNESCO selected a group of these religious structures as part of the Armenian Monastic Ensembles in Iran World Heritage Site [ [http://portal.unesco.org/en/ev.php-URL_ID=42989&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html Armenian monasteries in Iran added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List (July 6, 2008)] ] .

West Azarbaijan today

In the city of Urumieh, some residents have a high standard of living in comparison with the other cities of the province. There are plenty of parks, coffee shops, cinemas, and internet cafes throughout the city. There are hundreds of small villages in the province as well, most of which have running water and electricity as well as television, satellite, and telephone lines. Southern cities which economically are considered poor areas have always been the venue of Kurdish demonstrators against the Islamic regime. [http://www.iranfocus.com/modules/news/article.php?storyid=3183]

West Azarbaijan province is one of the most important provinces for Iran’s agriculture.

Iran's current Minister of Energy, Parviz Fattah is from Urmia.

Culture

West Azarbaijan hails from a rich culture from Kurdish and Azari traditions. Many local traditions, such as music and dances continue to survive among the various peoples of the province. As a longstanding province of Persia, it is mentioned favorably on many occasions in Persian literature by Iran's greatest authors and poets:

گزیده هر چه در ایران بزرگان
زآذربایگان و ری و گرگان

All the nobles and greats of Iran,
Choose from Azarbaijan, Ray, and Gorgan.
--"Vis o Ramin"

از آنجا بتدبیر آزادگان
بیامد سوی آذرآبادگان

From there the wise and the free,
set off to Azarbaijan
--"Nizami"

بیک ماه در آذرآبادگان
ببودند شاهان و آزادگان

For a month's time, The Kings and The Free,
Would choose in Azarbaijan to be
--"Firdowsi"

Colleges and universities

Urmia University was first built by an American Presbyterian missionary in 1878. A medical faculty was also established there headed by Joseph Cochran and a team of American medical associates. Joseph Cochran and his colleagues were buried in an old cemetery in the vicinity of Urmia. Urmia University website says this about them:

:"There they lie in peace away from their homeland, and the testimonial epitaphs on their tombs signify their endeavor and devotion to humanity."

The province today has the following major institutes of higher education:
*# Urmia University of Medical Sciences
*# Urmia University [http://www.urmia.ac.ir]
*# Urmia University of Technology
*# [http://www.khoyiau.ac.ir/ Islamic Azad University of Khoi]
*# [http://www.iau-mahabad.ac.ir/ Islamic Azad University of Mahabad]
*# Islamic Azad University of Urmia
*# [http://www.iau-piranshahr.ac.ir/ Islamic Azad University of Piranshahr]

References

External links

* [http://www.ostan-ag.gov.ir/ Official website of West Azarbaijan Governor’s Office]
* [http://www.portal-ag.ir/ West Azarbaijan’s Government Portal]
* [http://www.wampo.ir/ West Azarbaijan Provincial Management Organization]
* [http://www.urmiamiras.org/ West Azarbaijan Cultural Heritage Organization]
* [http://www.iranian.com/Travelers/2005/May/Trip/index.html Recent photos from Azarbaijan]
* [http://www2.unesco.org/mab/br/brdir/directory/biores.asp?mode=gen&code=IRA+07 Lake Urmia UNESCO Biosphere Reserve]
* [http://www.travel-images.com/az-uromiyeh.html About Urmia]


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